In Purani Haveli, a neighbourhood in the old city named after the old residence of the Nizam (also called Haveli Kadeem), which houses the Nizam’s Museum, stands a cluster of naan shops of varied size and prestige. They fire up their iron tandoors, fixed into raised platforms at the shopfront, at the crack of dawn to bake Hyderabad’s famous naan rotis. I reach Purani Haveli around eight in the morning, looking for a specific shop: Khadeem Munshi Naan. Khalil, a loquacious autorickshaw driver I met outside the Golconda Fort (another excruciating climb), had willingly agreed to take me on all my early-morning expeditions in the city. In his late forties and a father of three teenagers, Khalil tells me he loves to eat and knows all the best places to eat and shop in Hyderabad. It is he who tells me that the best biscuits are made by Subhan Bakery (let no one tell you otherwise), that pearl shops at the Charminar are to be avoided (he knows better places), and where to find the best nihari shops in the old city. Khalil rolls to a halt right in front of the historic Khadeem Munshi Naan.
The owner, who introduces himself as...Read more
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