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When I arranged to visit Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi's newly opened restaurant, Karigari, located in Sector 26, Chandigarh, my excitement was palpable, especially regarding his much-discussed green butter chicken. This dish, which has received endorsements from Farah Khan and her family, was chosen as the signature offering for Chandigarh before being introduced at his other twelve locations.

Despite my eagerness, Chef Harpal was not willing to divulge the recipe for his renowned butter chicken, although he graciously served me a bowl to sample.

It's hard to hold any resentment towards this charismatic chef, who effortlessly shifts between deep insights and playful antics, often breaking into his signature Namak-Shamak dance while cooking.

He embraces the identity of the 'Namak-Shamak guy' wholeheartedly. “It’s a wonderful thing that has come my way. While people may forget my name, they certainly remember me as the Namak Shamak guy,” he shared.

This persona was inspired by Girish Madhu, who directed Chef Harpal on the cooking show Turban Tadka. Before filming began, Girish asked Harpal how he wished to be remembered. This prompted Harpal to reflect deeply. Upon returning home, he picked up a book his daughter Antara was reading about Mahatma Gandhi. A chapter on Satyagraha struck him, revealing how salt played a pivotal role in India's freedom movement. He connected this philosophy to food, realizing that salt is the essential ingredient that enhances flavor. Thus, the concept of ‘Namak Shamak, Namak Shamak Daal Dete’ was born.

With his identity firmly established, we turned our attention to the star of the show: the green butter chicken, a dish he holds in high regard and protects fiercely.

“Recently, I participated in a podcast with Farah Khan, and when she visited my home, I decided to prepare butter chicken with a twist. I used green tomatoes, added some pesto, and topped it with burnt garlic and crushed black pepper. Farah took some home for her kids, and they loved it so much that she called me for feedback. I knew this would be the first dish on my menu when I opened my restaurant in Chandigarh. Currently, it’s exclusive to this location,” he explained.

His innovative use of pesto in butter chicken led us to discuss the trend of fusion cuisine, an area where he has been a trailblazer. However, he acknowledges that fusion can be a double-edged sword. “Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. The key is balance. We have traditional recipes that we respect, and then there are quirky ones, like parmesan chicken tikka or green garlic butter chicken topped with parmesan. We don’t create fusion just for the sake of it; we thoughtfully combine flavors to craft something unique. If I had to quantify it, I’d say our dishes are about 50-60% traditional, with the remaining 40% influenced by international flavors and experimental combinations,” he elaborated.

To illustrate his point, he took me to his cooking station and demonstrated how he could transform the classic pav bhaji into a pav bhaji fondue with a simple twist.

“A true Mumbai pav bhaji should have a strong tomato flavor and be rich in butter, with a pronounced clove essence in the masala,” he noted.

The pavs were presented in a circular shape, glazed with a spoonful of masala, and then topped with a cheese sauce that he caramelized using a blow torch. His meticulous attention to detail was impressive.

But Chef Harpal wasn’t finished yet. He moved to his tandoor to showcase another popular dish — the open kulcha, a half-cooked bread that serves as a vessel for a mix of chicken tikka, makhani sauce, onions, and cheese.

Cheese in butter chicken, cheese in pav bhaji, and now cheese in kulcha? “Punjab has a deep love for cheese,” he asserted confidently. And rightly so, as Punjab also appreciates those who genuinely care about its culinary preferences, as evidenced by the bustling foot traffic at Karigari!