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There is comfort food, and then there is food that feels like it has travelled straight from a family kitchen to a thoughtfully laid fine-dining table. Varsoo (Legacy) — a celebration of Gujarati and Kathiyawadi flavours — belongs to the second category.

“I wanted to present our traditional cuisine that’s been feeding Mumbai since years, but in a different way,” said Pinky Dixit, the owner of Varsoo, as she refers to Soam, their family restaurant.

The table is set with green chutney, chunda, fresh turmeric pickle, and green chilli pickle. Fresh turmeric pickle is something I could just keep eating.

The beverage menu starts strong with a Saffron Lemonade. Instead of treating saffron as a decorative flourish, the drink allows its distinctive flavour to shine through, resulting in a refreshing and aromatic cooler. The Hibiscus Ginger Iced Tea is another winner, provided you stir it well to allow the ginger notes to come alive. Jamun Juice was a little disappointing. Spices overpowered the fruit's natural character and left a slightly bitter finish.

Among the starters, the Royale Pani Puri stands out for its inventive twist – presentation and ingredients. The spicy kokum water, which is served in addition to the traditional pani, adds depth and tang, complementing the familiar combination of moong, ragda, potato, imli chutney and teekha pani. Equally impressive is the Farsan Platter. The green peas ghugra and patra cubes (traditional patra cut in bite sized cubes) offer comfort that instantly evoke home kitchens across Gujarat.

Among the many salads is only one salad without peanuts - Pumpkin Salad. Roasted pumpkin cubes are tossed in curd with mild spices. The combination works surprisingly well, although smaller pumpkin pieces would have improved the experience and ease of eating.

The restaurant's commitment to preserving and serving traditional recipes is best reflected in the Kathiyawadi Chapdo, a spicy vegetable stew served with wheat battis and tiny papads. Pinky informs that she got the recipe from a taxi driver in Rajkot. Robust, rustic and deeply satisfying, it captures the spirit of Kathiyawadi cuisine beautifully. Just dip the batti in the gravy, take a bite and then follow with spoonful of veggies.

The Rasawali Moong Panoli - moong dhokla served with moong osaman, delivers a balance of sweet and sour flavours. Light on palate on stomach. While the dhokla could have been lighter and softer, the dish remains delicious interpretation of a regional classic. Bhakri Platter with mini bhakris – makai, bajra, jowar – is served with flavoured butters —chunda, orange and mirchi thecha. Flavoured butters elevate an otherwise humble accompaniment into something delectable.

Among the lesser-known regional dishes, the Maara Mari Sev—a combination of curries of green and red tomatoes is served with sev and served alongside makai roti that has ajwain. A delightful interplay of textures and flavours. Nachni Corn Kichu, a layered preparation of steamed ragi and corn, with a drizzle of sesame oil and sambaria masala is unique twist to the traditional kichu.

They have quite a few rice options.  However, Pinky recommends Jungari Dal Rice, accompanied by Junagadh-style potatoes, papad, and fresh raw mango pickle. This is a complete meal in itself. The potatoes are a little on spicer side. But the subtle, comforting dal (moong dal with mild tempering and hint of coconut) provides balance. Ask for some ghee on your rice to enhance the taste.

Panchmel Dal paired with ker sangri and khoba roti is another hit in the mains. For me, the pickle masala based ker sangri on the sidelines was the hero.

The monsoon specials are a mixed bag. The Kand Batata Vada, made with seasonal yam instead of potato, is spicy and will delight chilli lovers. The Veg Handwo is hearty and flavourful, while the Makai Dhokla in Kadhi is a delectable seasonal idea that would benefit from a softer, lighter dhokla. Damni Dhokla made from varied millets and dals and shaped like a muffin is also delicious.

Don’t miss desserts. Especially the Akrot Halwa – walnut dessert that nearly floats in ghee without any sugar or jaggery is a treat. For more adventurous ones, Ghevar Tart is recommended.

Average cost for two: ₹3,000