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Getting off at Eastbourne railway station instantly gave me a feeling of calm I desperately needed. As the much quieter neighbour of Brighton, the town has a beautiful beach, quiet streets and a pier that immediately stands out against the coastline. Often referred to as 'God's Waiting Room', Eastbourne is undeniably beloved by pensioners. Visiting last winter, I saw and spoke to many older residents enjoying slow walks down the high street and along the seafront despite the cold weather. In 2022, 24% of the population in Eastbourne was aged 65 and over, higher than the England average of 19%.

But while the nickname may suggest somewhere sleepy and uneventful, Eastbourne still surprised me. Beneath the calm atmosphere is a town trying to balance its traditional seaside charm with modern-day problems. Many locals told me they loved Eastbourne for being quiet and tranquil, though several also complained about rising homelessness and crime, particularly shoplifting.

Conservative councillor Robert Smart, a pensioner himself, is well aware of Eastbourne's problems. Meeting at the seafront Bandstand - a major outdoor live music venue dubbed "the busiest Bandstand on planet earth" - he acknowledged that more needs to be done to tackle shoplifting, calling for more frontline policing and better CCTV coverage.

In front of him, the pier stretched into the sea as he explained why Eastbourne still deserves its "Sunshine Coast" label. According to Mr Smart, the town has a "wealth of facilities" for older residents and visitors, including the Devonshire Quarter theatres, year-round cultural events, choirs, church communities, golf and even a top-tier international tennis tournament.

"It's a wonderful place to be a pensioner here," he said, adding that Eastbourne appeals to far more than just retirees. He also highlighted the compact town centre and its walkable nature as major advantages.

Not every resident believes Eastbourne is declining either. Jean Pertlove, 90, told me she moved to the town after losing her husband and wanting to be closer to friends. She recalled being well cared for from the moment she arrived, even having a cancerous lump removed shortly after settling in.

"They'd done it when I moved here, it was taken away," she said.

For Jean, life in Eastbourne is "alright, not too bad". She said she feels generally safe and enjoys walking by the beach and keeping in touch with neighbours, although she avoids going out at night. Regarding the concerns about rising crime, she said she personally has not witnessed it herself.

Despite its sleepy reputation, Eastbourne Pier remains one of the town's biggest attractions. Named the seventh-best pier in Britain, it is exactly what you want from a traditional British seaside landmark. Stretching elegantly into the sea since 1872, the Victorian structure is lined with amusement arcades, food stalls and uninterrupted sea views, managing to feel nostalgic without becoming tacky.

Eastbourne may never have the buzz or nightlife of Brighton, but that is exactly its appeal. The town feels slower, calmer and more comfortable in its own identity. And while there are clearly challenges beneath the postcard-perfect seafront, the world-renowned Eastbourne Open tennis tournament, taking place in June, makes it somewhere I would happily return to.