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It's been a defining fixture of British restaurant culture for four decades, standing alongside the likes of Little Chef, Harvester and Beefeater. But while Little Chef has vanished from our roadsides and Beefeater will shortly disappear too, Toby Carvery remains apparently thriving with roughly 150 establishments nationwide.

I've passed the branch nearest to my home countless times and consistently thought "I must give that a go" but never actually managed to arrange a visit. While you'll spot the occasional alternative dish on the menu, Toby Carvery is renowned for one thing above all else: its signature carvery where diners queue to receive up to four different meats before serving themselves roasted and steamed vegetables plus gravy.

Standing there with an empty plate, awaiting my turn at the meat and vegetable station on a Sunday afternoon, my initial impression was that Toby Carvery was a straightforward but brilliant recipe for success, considering Britain's enduring passion for a traditional Sunday roast and the comparatively modest expense of supplying copious amounts of affordable vegetables. My second observation, however, was wondering who on Earth eats like this on any of the remaining six days of the week.

In fairness, Toby Carvery's parent company, Mitchells and Butlers, appears to be in reasonably solid shape, with share prices on an upward trajectory since they nosedived in 2022 (due to soaring labour, ingredient and energy costs, coupled with reduced consumer spending amid the cost of living crisis). At the close of 2025, the firm - which also owns Miller and Carter and All Bar One - cautioned that it was bracing for £130m in additional costs this year owing to a surging wage bill and climbing food prices, though it subsequently reported an "exceptionally strong" Christmas period. A small number of Toby Carvery restaurants have shut their doors this year but, even if it does have the occasional bump in the road, it is navigating one of the most challenging industries around.

The car park at the Cardiff restaurant I visited was reasonably busy, and there was a genuine sense of anticipation as I stepped through the door, clocking the five-out-of-five food hygiene rating displayed at the entrance.

Inside, the surroundings were spotless and well-presented, and our host went out of their way to rearrange the tables and seating for our sizeable group of 16 (it had been nice and straightforward to amend the booking on two separate occasions as the number of guests joining me kept growing).

Drinks orders were swiftly taken and promptly delivered, with a respectable selection of beers on offer for the adults - including Guinness, Madri, Stella and Proper Job ale on tap - alongside soft drinks and milk for the little ones. A couple of vegan dishes were ordered, and the attentive server helpfully informed us of the expected wait time (10 minutes), allowing the rest of us to plan our trip to the carvery accordingly, which was priced at £16.99 per adult or £7.99 for two courses for children.

Adults can upgrade to king size for an additional £1.99, receiving extra meat, an additional Yorkshire pudding and two chipolata sausages. Personally, I found it hard to imagine why I'd want to make this already generous meal any larger.

The queue for food moved along nicely, and I opted for lamb and turkey (with pork, gammon and beef also available). After receiving impressively generous portions from the chef, I attempted to exercise some restraint at the vegetable station - with limited success - selecting cauliflower, roast onion, green beans, carrots, parsnips and roast potatoes. The parsnips and potatoes were a particular highlight - beautifully charred, gloriously crispy on the outside yet delightfully fluffy within.

The remainder of the meal, while nothing to write home about, was thoroughly enjoyable and met expectations entirely. At £16.99, there was little cause for complaint, though the Yorkshire pudding wasn't great. It was a bit soggy and quite a long way from the crisp and fluffy Yorkie you'd want. For the children, a plate of turkey or pork with roast potatoes and vegetables, rounded off with an ice cream sundae with their preferred toppings, is simply perfect - and £7.99 represents excellent value.

Some people turn their noses up at a Toby Carvery, but I thought it served a thoroughly enjoyable Sunday roast at a good price. The service was both welcoming and efficient and the relaxed atmosphere meant there was no need to fret about children being a bit boisterous, unlike at a more upmarket pub. My primary thought was why on earth hadn't I visited sooner. I'd happily return next week.