Edward Enninful is curating an exhibition at Tate Britain exploring art and fashion in the 1990s during a decade that reshaped Britain and its cultural identity. Set to launch this autumn, The 90s: Art and Fashion will feature work from nearly 70 artists, photographers and designers, from the Young British Artists to Alexander McQueen and Damien Hirst. It will also spotlight work from young artistic talent that emerged during the period and encourage UK audiences to reconsider the time as a "turning point" in British art.
Among the featured work is Steve McQueen's first major 1993 film, Bear, and Ofili's Turner Prize-winning painting No Woman, No Cry (1998), which he made in tribute to Stephen Lawrence and his family.
The exhibition will also tackle identity and class. Spread across multiple rooms, the show will bring together more than 100 photographs, paintings, sculptures and garments.
Enninful said the year 1990 was a "moment of transition", adding: "London at the time wasn't the polished global capital it is today - it was raw, unstable and full of possibility. There was a sense that something was shifting, even if we didn't have the language for it."
Speaking at a press launch for the exhibition on Monday, he shared: "What defined that period for me was not a single movement, but an energy - a refusal of hierarchy and a belief that new voices could and should be heard across art, fashion, music and image making."
He said that for him, as a young Black man from Ladbroke Grove, west London, the moment was also about "access" and "finding a place within spaces that hadn't been built with you in mind."
Enninful informed his audience that the exhibition was not about "nostalgia" but to highlight that the "1990s established conditions that are still with us".
He added that the exhibition was "an invitation, not to look back, but to look again, to reconsider that decade, not as a closed chapter, but as something still unfolding."
Enninful was Vogue's first black editor-in-chief and became the youngest fashion editor at a major international title when he took on the role of fashion director at i-D Magazine aged 18. He was made an OBE in 2016 for his services to fashion.
The 90s: Art And Fashion exhibition will run at Tate Britain in Westminster from October 8 to February 14 next year.
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